![]() P.S.: I'm going to respectfully disagree with the poster above: a tripod is a very worthy investment (and it can be a very cheap one at that if you shoot at home in non-windy conditions) if you shoot in anything but bright daylight. I think diagonal shots look more aesthetically pleasing anyway. Or will allow you to shoot at some angle, diagonally. You can put a smaller one on your desk or get a taller one and extend it, flipping the camera to point mostly down, shooting from above. Some of my exposures are 2 seconds long on my work desk in suboptimal lighting, but they come out nice and clean at ISO-100. A tripod is a cheap investment with great return. That limits you in terms of proper exposure and ability to use the lowest ISO. Hand-held without image stabilization, you can only shoot at maybe 1/30th (with very steady hands) of a second or faster. Using a tripod makes a world of difference for product photography, truly. ![]() #Izoom cvs locations iso#Yes, to get an equivalent exposure at faster shutter speed, you need to increase the aperture (which will mean that the edges and areas beyond your focus point will be increasingly out of focus) or increase ISO (not great for product photos, where you want the cleanest image possible). And if you are not interested in learning exposure - and I don't blame you for that - you will have to experiment a bit before you get things right. And do make sure that you have more than sufficient lighting. No, you do not need a tripod, but you will have to rethink your composition. The closer you move to the object you intend to capture, the shallower does the depth of field get. I believe the complications are caused by the much larger sensor on your Samsung. Is it absolutely necessary to use a tripod? Does reducing the aperture automatically increase blur if there is hand movement? I guess it does, because it means longer exposures, right? So there is no way to get greater depth of field without longer exposures? If I use higher ISO's, that will reduce exposure time, won't it?įinding a tripod that will put the camera in the position I want may be difficult. #Izoom cvs locations manual#You may want to use full manual focus for this to make sure the exact area you want in focus is the sharpest. At ISO 100, it may well be that exposures will be long, and your shots will be prone to camera shake if you try them hand-held. Set your camera on a tripod, set up your scene, focus, press the shutter button, and don't touch the camera / shake the area around the tripod by taking steps until the camera takes a photo. Set your shots to a timed mode: a timer of say 2 seconds. Smaller apertures will give greater depth of field to bring more in focus.Ĥ. Larger apertures will give you that artsy looking background blur. Set the aperture to f/8 or f/9 (greater depth of field, but don't need to go smaller than that) when you want to show most of the shot in focus or maximum size aperture (say f/3.5 at 20mm) when you want to focus on a certain area and blur everything beyond it. A ball head tripod is easier to deal with for a first tripod.Ģ. Something around $15-30 could do well-just read reviews, as some are better quality than others. Get a tripod, if you don't already have one. Or perhaps I shouldn't be using wide angle (if I zoom in too much, I don't get everything in the shot).ġ. If I should be taking my shots in A or S mode, I'm not aware of that. I'm a pretty smart person, but I've never fully understood the relationship between aperture size and shutter speed, etc. How do I get all the beads to be in perfect focus? And if I don't hold the camera perfectly over the plate, sometimes one side of the beads will be softer than the other. At other times, the outer edges of the beads will come out soft. Sometimes the entire plate of beads will come out slightly soft (soft, not blurry). I'll take 8 different photos at 3 different exposure-compensation settings. ![]() ![]() My camera settings are wide angle and Program mode, and I let the camera select the ISO. I will lay a "hank" of beads out on a white dinner plate, and then photograph it from about 18 inches above (I do all this in front of a window using natural daylight). To be specific, I sell colorful glass beads at The composition of my photos isn't important all that's important is that I post an accurate picture of the beads. My photos are not coming out as sharp as the photos I was getting from my old Canon point-and-shoot camera, and I'm wondering if there is anything that I can do about it. I recently purchased the NX1100 because it has good color accuracy. ![]()
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